The F*cking White T-Shirt.
Written By Lena B. Pietrzak.
I do love a plain white t-shirt. It speaks volumes, despite being so silent and timeless: a piece that transmits nothing but so much at the same time.
Lesage exhibition at le 19M, titled "Lesage, 100 Years of Fashion and Decoration"
This thought came to mind when I had the pleasure of attending a Lesage exhibition at le 19M in Paris. Their exquisite craftsmanship was on full display, showcasing an array of embroidered works that have graced haute couture and decorative arts for over a century - intricate beadwork, sequins, silk threads, and metallic embellishments. I was surrounded by pieces that had taken hundreds of hours to complete.
That day, I decided to juxtapose by wearing a plain white t-shirt. Why? Well, I was feeling uninspired that morning whilst I rummaged through my wardrobe. As a fashion student, I often feel the pressure to dress up every day, to demonstrate my creativity, to silently proclaim, “See? I understand fashion.” Whether it’s a pair of Jimmy Choos I spent half my monthly student budget on, or a vintage fur. There is never enough eccentricity. But that day, I said, screw it. White shirt it is.
A white shirt says so little, yet so much at the same time. It’s adaptable. Versatile. Worn as a button-down in the corporate world, it’s classy and elegant, a “boss people around and disregard their individuality” kind of vibe. Or it can be worn as an understatement, showcasing the power of simplicity. It’s a blank canvas for a creative mind.
When I see someone wearing a white shirt, be it at a gallery, a show, or some “exclusive” event, I instantly think, Wow, that person must be somebody. No one trying desperately to stand out, no one yearning to scream “look at me,” would conceal themselves in a crowd by wearing a plain white shirt.
Comme Des Garçons, Spring 2023, Menswear
After reading an article in Harper’s Bazaar titled “The fascinating history of the white shirt”, I learnt that in the 19th century, it symbolized wealth and social status. Maintaining a white shirt’s pristine condition was a luxury only the affluent could afford. Even the term “white-collar” emerged during this period, reflecting the association with office wear and professionalism.
To this day, the white shirt has remained a recurring motif in fashion’s visual lexicon. Being redefined and deconstructed numerous times. Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), known for her avant-garde designs, has repeatedly reimagined the white shirt, turning it into an art piece.
My all time favourite photographer, Peter Lindbergh, redefined the glamour of the 1990s. By frequently captured supermodels like Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington in simple white shirts in his black-and-white portraits, he stripped-down the styling and highlighted natural beauty.
Peter Lindbergh | 'Estelle Lefébure, Karen Alexander, Rachel Williams, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington', Santa Monica, California, Usa, 1988
Hedi Slimane portrait, source: Courtesy
Hedi Slimane’s (Saint Laurent, Dior Homme, Celine), razor-sharp white shirts became a signature of his aesthetic, symbolizing youth, rebellion, and minimalism. His designs often referenced rock-and-roll culture, making the white shirt a staple of an edgy, contemporary fashion.
With confidence I remark that today the white shirt remains an essential (admittedly we all have some variety of the classic tee hanging in our closets right now). I feel like people shy away from it, since it is just “too basic”. However, beyond it’s obvious whiteness, it holds a dynasty shaped by designers playing with the avant-garde.
Therefore I would like to conclude by saying, the most effective statement is no statement at all: a white t-shirt.